Tag: fashion history

Fit & Fabulous

Wars Have Shaped Women’s Fashion Silhouettes Since World War I, Says Goan Designer Simran Dhond

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Written by Intern Rency Gomes || Team Allycaral 

Panaji, January 2026: Wars have played a significant role in shaping women’s fashion over the decades, influencing silhouettes, functionality and movement, according to multidisciplinary Goan fashion designer Simran Dhond.


Dhond was delivering a centenary lecture titled ‘Classic vs Contemporary – What Every Generation Can Learn About Style’ as part of the ongoing centenary celebrations at the iconic Clube Tennis de Gaspar Dias in Miramar.

Responding to a question on whether economic and social factors influence the length of women’s clothing, particularly skirts, Dhond explained that the shift began during World War I. “During World War I, skirts changed silhouettes and style. They became more functional. Earlier, women wore very long skirts, but later the hemline moved up to the knees to allow quicker movement and enable women to get more work done,” she said.

She added that fashion evolves differently across cultures. In the Indian context, where women wearing short skirts form a smaller demographic, the impact was reflected in subtler changes such as smarter draping of the saree.

During her lecture, Dhond — who holds a master’s degree in fashion and textiles from De Montfort University, England, and is a gold medallist in knitwear design from the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), Bengaluru — traced the evolution of contemporary fashion. She emphasised that personal style should prioritise comfort, individuality and longevity over blindly following trends.

“Even in contemporary styling, it needs to be about personality. While classic fashion is more structured, contemporary fashion is fluid and embodies who you are,” said Dhond, who currently heads Design & Brand Development at Carbon Tree, a conscious activewear label.

In an interactive session with the audience, Dhond spoke about the role of functionality in clothing, including uniforms. Addressing a question on colonial influence in armed forces attire, she explained that structure and practicality dictate uniform design rather than imitation of Western styles. “Uniforms are about ease of movement, structure and camouflage. Traditional Indian garments like kurtas, while elegant, are not functional in combat situations,” she noted.

On the subject of Indian textiles and crafts, Dhond highlighted their growing global recognition. She cited international luxury brands acknowledging the contribution of Indian artisans, including recent collaborations involving the Chanakya School of Craft in Mumbai. “For years, the role of Indian artisans was not openly acknowledged. Today, global fashion houses are finally showcasing the craftsmanship behind their creations, placing India firmly on the global fashion map,” she said.

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Giorgio Armani Dies at 91: A Titan of Fashion Who Redefined Elegance

Tanisha Cardozo

Giorgio Armani, the Italian fashion designer whose name became synonymous with elegance, precision, and power, has died at the age of 91. Over a career that spanned more than six decades, Armani changed the language of fashion—removing stiffness from men’s tailoring, empowering women with refined suits, and leaving an unmistakable mark on red carpet culture.

Born in 1934 in Piacenza, northern Italy, Armani came from humble beginnings shaped by war and scarcity. He originally pursued medicine and served in the army before beginning his career in fashion as a window dresser. It was there, on the shop floor, that Armani’s acute understanding of fabric, form, and what people wanted to wear was forged. Rising through the ranks, he became a buyer, then a designer, eventually working for Nino Cerruti before founding his own label in 1975 with his partner Sergio Galeotti.

Together, they built an empire that challenged convention. Armani softened menswear—introducing more fluid shapes and luxurious fabrics—and hardened womenswear, with sharply tailored suits that reflected women’s growing presence in the workplace. His designs communicated quiet power and modernity, worn by some of the most influential figures of the 20th and 21st centuries.

Hollywood embraced his vision early on. In 1980, Richard Gere wore Armani in American Gigolo, launching the designer into global stardom. From there, he became a red carpet mainstay, dressing stars like Julia Roberts, Cate Blanchett, Zendaya, and Russell Crowe. He created stage outfits for Lady Gaga and film costumes for The Untouchables and The Wolf of Wall Street. Armani understood better than anyone that image was power—and his garments delivered it.

He was also a man of principle. In 2006, he became the first designer to ban underweight models from his runway shows, following the tragic death of Ana Carolina Reston. His business remained fiercely independent, resisting outside investment while expanding into beauty, fragrance, hotels, music, and sport. With annual revenues exceeding £2bn and a personal fortune estimated at $13bn, Armani was one of the last great independently owned fashion houses in the world.

Tributes poured in from across the globe. Donatella Versace called him “a giant,” Julia Roberts described him as “a true friend,” and British designer Paul Smith praised his “staying power” and “down-to-earth nature.” Actor Russell Crowe recalled Armani being present for many significant moments in his life, while Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni called him “an icon, a tireless worker, a symbol of the best of Italy.”

Even in his final years, Armani remained creatively active, presenting his last collection remotely from Milan in July 2025. His March show earlier that year was a call for global harmony—his design always reflecting the times, always evolving with the world.

Behind the discipline and minimalism was a deeply private man who lived with quiet intensity. He swam daily in a specially designed pool just one yard wide. He worked tirelessly, never satisfied, always in pursuit of perfection. Armani once said, “I never give up until I’ve achieved the results I want.”

He is survived by the brand he built, the style he transformed, and a legacy woven not only into fabric but into the very way people see themselves. Giorgio Armani wasn’t just a designer—he was a revolutionary. And he will be remembered as one of the greatest ever to shape the world of fashion.