Written by Tanisha Cardozo
In the wake of Prada’s controversy over Kolhapuri chappals, another global fashion giant, Dior, is now facing heat for failing to credit India for a traditional embroidery technique featured in one of its newest couture pieces.
The luxury fashion house unveiled a $200,000 gold and ivory houndstooth coat at Paris Fashion Week as part of designer Jonathan Anderson’s debut collection for Dior. The event, attended by high-profile celebrities like Rihanna, Daniel Craig, and Robert Pattinson, was celebrated for its craftsmanship — but has since drawn criticism for cultural insensitivity.
The issue? The embroidery technique used in the opulent coat is believed to be Mukaish, an intricate hand embroidery style from Lucknow, India, known for using metallic threads to create shimmering motifs. Despite the garment reportedly taking 34 days to complete, no mention of “Mukaish” or its Indian roots was made in Dior’s promotional material or runway notes.
The oversight was highlighted by fashion analyst Hanan Besnovic, who runs the popular Instagram page @ideaservecouture. In a now-viral post, he broke down the craftsmanship behind the coat and stated:
“This is a traditional Indian hand embroidery technique… yet nowhere has Dior acknowledged its origin. This is about credit. This is about cultural respect.”
The backlash has reignited debates around cultural appropriation in fashion, where Western labels often incorporate traditional or indigenous art forms without proper acknowledgment or benefit to the original creators.
Fashion lovers, designers, and Indian artisans alike have taken to social media to express frustration, noting that such oversight erases cultural history and overlooks the skilled craftspeople keeping these traditions alive.
Critics argue that Dior missed an opportunity to spotlight India’s rich embroidery heritage — particularly Mukaish, which dates back centuries and has been passed down through generations of artisans in Uttar Pradesh.
The incident comes at a time when global conversations around ethical fashion, sustainability, and cultural sensitivity are louder than ever. As Indian textiles and techniques continue to inspire luxury fashion globally, many are calling for transparency, collaboration, and fair credit.
Whether Dior responds to the controversy remains to be seen, but the message from critics is loud and clear: Acknowledgement matters.
