Wars Have Shaped Women’s Fashion Silhouettes Since World War I, Says Goan Designer Simran Dhond

Written by Intern Rency Gomes || Team Allycaral 

Panaji, January 2026: Wars have played a significant role in shaping women’s fashion over the decades, influencing silhouettes, functionality and movement, according to multidisciplinary Goan fashion designer Simran Dhond.

Dhond was delivering a centenary lecture titled ‘Classic vs Contemporary – What Every Generation Can Learn About Style’ as part of the ongoing centenary celebrations at the iconic Clube Tennis de Gaspar Dias in Miramar.

Responding to a question on whether economic and social factors influence the length of women’s clothing, particularly skirts, Dhond explained that the shift began during World War I. “During World War I, skirts changed silhouettes and style. They became more functional. Earlier, women wore very long skirts, but later the hemline moved up to the knees to allow quicker movement and enable women to get more work done,” she said.

She added that fashion evolves differently across cultures. In the Indian context, where women wearing short skirts form a smaller demographic, the impact was reflected in subtler changes such as smarter draping of the saree.

During her lecture, Dhond — who holds a master’s degree in fashion and textiles from De Montfort University, England, and is a gold medallist in knitwear design from the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), Bengaluru — traced the evolution of contemporary fashion. She emphasised that personal style should prioritise comfort, individuality and longevity over blindly following trends.

“Even in contemporary styling, it needs to be about personality. While classic fashion is more structured, contemporary fashion is fluid and embodies who you are,” said Dhond, who currently heads Design & Brand Development at Carbon Tree, a conscious activewear label.

In an interactive session with the audience, Dhond spoke about the role of functionality in clothing, including uniforms. Addressing a question on colonial influence in armed forces attire, she explained that structure and practicality dictate uniform design rather than imitation of Western styles. “Uniforms are about ease of movement, structure and camouflage. Traditional Indian garments like kurtas, while elegant, are not functional in combat situations,” she noted.

On the subject of Indian textiles and crafts, Dhond highlighted their growing global recognition. She cited international luxury brands acknowledging the contribution of Indian artisans, including recent collaborations involving the Chanakya School of Craft in Mumbai. “For years, the role of Indian artisans was not openly acknowledged. Today, global fashion houses are finally showcasing the craftsmanship behind their creations, placing India firmly on the global fashion map,” she said.